ScandiTech's iPhone 5 & 5C SCreen/LCD replacement guide
General tips before you get started with your iPhone 5 or iPhone 5C display replacement.
An iPhone 5 will be used in this text guide but the differences between these two models are minimal but highlighted throughout the guide. Our video guides show both the iPhone 5 and 5C separately.
The iPhone 5 and 5C are very similar in terms of build, although their screens are slightly different. The other main difference throughout the replacement process is that the 5C has four screws holding down the metal plate in the top right corner of the motherboard. The iPhone 5 only has three screws. More on this on this further down.
We sell our screens both with inner parts pre-assembled (home button & flex, front camera flex, ear speaker, LCD shield) but also without inner parts. Using a screen with inner parts pre-assembled shortens the replacement process and also allows to skip certain tedious steps (steps 6-13 can be skipped). We show the replacement process for both options in this guide.
We recommend reading through the entire guide before carrying out the replacement. This will give a general idea of what you are up against and you will feel more comfortable when disassembling your iPhone. We’d like to begin by issuing caution throughout the replacement process. You are, after all, operating on a hi-tech device. The warnings below (1-4) address rare problems (less than 1 in 1000 users experience one these) but they should still be taken seriously.
Our support is available seven days a week per email if you need any assistance.
1 The front is mostly made out of a glass screen and an LCD underneath it. If this part is not handled with care, the glass can shatter and/or the LCD can break.
2Most screws are of different lengths. Removed screws need to go back into the same place they were removed from. Organize the screws when removing them! The motherboard can otherwise take damage.
3The connectors connecting various parts (touch, LCD, front camera, and battery) to the logic board are fragile and can get damaged if they are not handled with care. Use a plastic tool or your finger.
4Back-up your phone prior to the battery replacement. No data will be lost if the replacement goes as a planned but unforeseen complications can arise, although they are uncommon.
Detailed step-by-step text/image guide for iPhone 5 & 5C front assembly replacement
Turn off the phone and remove the two bottom screws.
Remove the two pentalobe bottom screws next to the charging port and place them aside at a safe distance. Both of these screws are of the same size and can be removed with the small pentalobe screwdriver.
Remove the two pentalobe bottom screws.
Separate the front from the back assembly.
There are two ways of separating the two assemblies:
1. Suction cup: Press the suction cup against the glass as close to the home button as possible, but not on the home button, and gently pulling the front assembly upwards from the back assembly. Move slowly as the screen can suddenly let loose...
2. Tweezers: Insert between the front assembly and the back assembly (between the metal and the plastic frame – not between the glass and the plastic frame) just above the speaker/mic holes. Make sure to put it right in the middle or else components inside the phone could get damaged...
... with your suction cup or tweezers create a small opening between the two assemblies, then insert your plastic opening tool. Run the tool along the bottom side and the two long sides of the screen to separate it from the back assembly. Lift the screen to a 90 degree angle.
The front assembly is connected with three cables (LCD, touch, front camera) in the top right corner to the motherboard. Do not put tension on these cables or they can tear. These cables will be disconnected shortly.
The glass part of the front assembly sometimes comes loose from its frame. Use the tweezers to pry the frame free (2.).
The tweezers can leave a small mark on your metal back assembly.
Lift with suction cup.
Tweezers is an alternative to the cup.
Lever the front assembly up.
Once there's a tiny opening, use the plastic opening tool.
Run the tool along the bottom side,...
... left side,...
... and right side (not top side).
Lift the screen to a 90 degree angle (beware of the three cables).
Remove battery connector plate and disconnect battery.
Keep holding the screen at a 90 degree angle. Remove the two Phillips screws holding the battery connector plate and set them aside. Pick up the plate with your fingers or the tweezers and place it next to the screws.
Disconnect the battery's connector by levering it up from its socket with the plastic spudger. Make sure not to damage or lift the socket (it's soldered to the motherboard). The connector comes loose with minimal force.
The screws are of slightly different lengths on the iPhone 5; top screw is slightly longer than the bottom screw. Make sure to put them back in their respective slots to avoid damage.
The screws on the iPhone 5C are of the same length.
Remove the two Phillips screws.
Pick up the battery connector plate.
Carefully lift the battery connector.
Battery connector disconnected.
Remove the top right connector plate and disconnect the screen.
Keep holding the front assembly at a 90 degree angle. The top right metal plate covers the LCD, touch (digitizer), and front camera (+ear speaker) connectors. Remove the Phillips screws (iPhone 5: 3 screws, iPhone 5C: 4 screws) holding the plate and set them aside in the order they were removed (keep them organized!). Then grab the plate and place it next to the screws. Disconnect the LCD, touch, and front camera cable connectors with the spudger in a similar fashion as the battery connector. Rest the spudger on a metal object (metal shield of the metal back assembly), not any small sensitive components on the motherboard then lever the connectors up. They disconnect easy so move slowly and carefully. Once the connectors have been disconnected, the screen can be lifted off.
The screws are of different lengths and need to go back into the same hole they were removed from to avoid motherboard damage. Longest screw (both iPhone 5 and 5C) goes in the top right hole. iPhone 5C has its second longest screw in the top left hole. The two shortest screws go in the bottom left and bottom right hole.
The 5C's third and last connector (touch connector) will be vertical.
Remove the Phillips screws. The iPhone 5C has a fourth screw circled with yellow.
Pick up and set the metal plate aside.
Disconnect the three connectors.
Begin with the front camera connector.
Front camera connector disconnected.
Disconnect the LCD connector.
LCD connector disconnected.
Disconnect the touch connector. This connector will be vertical on the 5C.
Test the new screen (optional but highly recommended).
Now that the old screen is removed it's easy to test the new screen before assembling the phone completely. Testing the screen at this point will show if it works properly or not. If it doesn't, it's quick and easy to re-install the old screen.
If a screen without inner parts is used it'll have two connectors; LCD and touch.
If a screen with inner parts is used then the front camera will also be connected, resulting in a third connector (not pictured).
Hold the screen adjacent to the back assembly and align its connector to their sockets on the motherboard.
Once the first connector is aligned, press it on one end with your finger then move your finger to the other end. A soft click will be heard or felt as the connector snaps onto its socket.
Connect the two/three screen connectors then do the same with the battery's connector. No need to screw down the plates.
Lower the screen and let it rest on top of the back assembly. Start the phone. Make sure the LCD lights up well then slide a finger across the screen to test the touch. Once the screen has been tested, turn off the phone.
If a screen with inner parts is being fitted, skip ahead to Step 13. The remaining process is significantly shorter.
If a screen without inner parts is being fitted, the parts from the original screen need to be removed and installed on the new screen. Continue to the next step
The battery needs to be disconnected before the screen is disconnected. When re-connecting the screen the battery needs to be connected after the screen.
Old screen removed, new screen ready to be tested.
Hold the screen adjacent to the back assembly.
Align its first connector.
Connect its first (touch) connector. Press it on one end...
... then slide your finger across it to fully connect it.
Connect the second connector (LCD). Connect the third connector if using a screen with inner parts (not pictured).
Connect the battery's connector.
Lower the screen and start the phone.
Test the touch.
Turn off the phone once satisfied.
Disconnect the new screen and the battery.
Disconnect the battery's connector with the spudger then do the same with the screen's connectors. Lift off the screen and set it aside while the inner parts from the old screen are disassembled.
Disconnect the battery's connector with the spudger.
Disconnect the screen's connectors with the spudger.
Remove the ear speaker and the front camera flex from the original screen.
Remove the two screws holding the ear speaker shield. The top left screw is longer than the bottom right. Organize them as they are removed. Lift off the shield then the ear speaker to expose the front camera flex. The front camera flex is secured to the plastic frame with soft adhesive. Use the tweezers the "dig" down underneath the flex and then lift it. Come in with the tweezers from the right side and press down relatively hard. The plastic frame is robust whereas the flex is fragile and can get cut if the tweezers isn't angled towards the frame. Once one leg of the tweezers is underneath the flex, slowly and carefully lift it. The adhesive will eventually let the flex loose and the bigger part of it can be folded 180 degrees to expose the application mic which is held in place in a rubber frame. Lift the mic with the tweezers, it comes loose easily with minimal force.
The front camera flex is somewhat fragile and sensitive to sharp objects. It can tear or get cut if handled roughly.
Remove the two screws. Top left is longer is the longest.
Lift off the ear speaker shield.
Lift off the ear speaker.
Slide one end of the tweezers underneath the front camera flex.
Lift the front camera flex.
Lift the front camera flex's mic.
Front camera flex is removed.
Remove the LCD shield.
The LCD shield is held in place with six Phillips screws: one at the top, two on each long side, and one at the bottom. The top and bottom screws are a bit longer than the four screws on the side. Organize the screws as you remove them.
The iPhone 5C's top screw is at the same angle as the side screws; hold the screwdriver horizontally (not vertically) to remove it.
Identify the six screws holding the LCD shield.
Remove them one by one.
Lift off the LCD shield. If it's a bit stuck, assist with the tweezers.
Remove the home button and its flex.
The home button is secured with a metal shield which is held in place with two identical Phillips screws. Remove the screws then lift the home button's flex from the right side in a similar fashion as the front camera flex a few steps back. Work one end of the tweezers underneath the flex then lift it carefully. Set the metal shield and home button flex aside.
Push the home button's plastic button from the front side to remove it. It's held in place with a rubber gasket that has adhesive around it. Avoid touching the adhesive not to soften the adhesive. This part will be re-used. Leave the rubber gasket on the home button.
Now all the parts are stripped from the old screen and shall be re-assembled onto the new screen. The re-assembly process is very similar to he disassembly process but backwards.
Begin by removing the two screws holding the shield then work the tweezers underneath the flex.
Lift the flex carefully with the tweezers.
Press the plastic home button.
The home button will come loose from the back.
Install the home button.
If there's a film on the screen, remove it. Fit the plastic home button with its rubber gasket in place. Flip the screen to make sure the home button is well placed.
Place the home buttons shield and flex on top of the plastic button and press down the flex's left part so that it sticks to the frame. Secure the shield with its two Phillips screws.
If there's a film on the screen, remove it.
Grab the plastic button with its rubber frame and put it in place.
Screen (front side) with the button in place.
Place the home button shield and flex on the button.
Secure the shield with its two Phillips screws.
Install the LCD shield.
Put the LCD shield in place. Guide it in between the metal rails on the side of necessary. Locate its six Phillips screws and screw them fastened. The longest screw goes in the top hole.
Guide the shield with the tweezers.
Secure the shield with its screws.
Install the front camera flex and the ear speaker.
Fix the front camera flex's application mic into its rubber gasket on the front assembly's frame. Press it down with your finger. Fold the remaining flex 180 degrees so that the camera and the sensors fall into place. Two gold-colored pads should now be visible. The two gold-colored springs on the ear speaker need to fall on top of the two pads for the ear speaker to be connected. Place the ear speaker in place then put its shield on top. Secure the shield with its two Phillips screws, longest screw in the top left hole.
Locate the rubber holder of the mic.
Place the mic in its rubber gasket on the frame.
Fold the flex on expose the two pads.
Take notice of the springs on the ear speaker and the pads; the springs need to be in contact with the pads.
Place the ear speaker on top of the pads.
Secure the ear speaker with its shield and two screws. Longest screw in the top left hole.
Complete front assembly (all inner parts installed).
The front assembly has now been fitted with all its inner parts and it's ready for final assembly.
Our front assembly with "inner parts pre-installed" will look like this out of the box.
Fully assembled front assembly with all inner parts installed.
Connect the front assembly to the motherboard.
Hold the top of the front assembly adjacent to the top of the back assembly and align the first connector from the front assembly with its socket on the motherboard. Once the connector is right on top of its socket, connect it by pressing one of its ends with your finger, then move your finger over the connector to the other end. When the connector attaches to its socket a soft click is heard or felt. Once the first connector is connected, move on to the second, and finally the third. The connectors are small and can be difficult to align correctly. It can take several attempts and some tinkering before the connectors are fully connected.
If the LCD connector is not fully connected lines, squares or odd colors may appear on the screen once the phone starts up.
If the touch connector is not fully connected the touchscreen will either not respond or react poorly.
If the front camera connector is not fully connected the front camera and/or the ear speaker (used during calls) will not work.
If any of these issues appear after the phone has started, go back to this step and adjust (disconnect then re-connect) the appropriate connector.
Our support is ready to help if needed: email@example.com
After the three front assembly connectors, connect the battery's connector as well.
Once all the connectors are connected, an optional step before completing the installation is to test the front assembly. It's recommended to test the front assembly to make sure that the screen still works but also that all its inner parts are responding correctly. See Step 5 for test instructions. Once the tests are completed, leave the screen connected and move on to the next step.
Caution: Do not pull or put tension on any of the three flex cables from the front assembly as they can tear. Work the connectors slowly and carefully. They need to be pressed with a bit of force to fully connect but keep in mind that they are small and somewhat fragile. It can take several attempts before they are correctly aligned and connected. Patience is key.
Hold the front asssembly adjacent to the back assembly.
Align the touch connector with its socket and press one of it's ends.
Move your finger across the connector to fully connect it.
Align and connect the LCD connector the same way as the previous connector.
Align and connect the vertical front camera connector.
Finally, connect the battery's connector.
Secure the two remaining metal shields.
Put the top right metal shield in place over the front assembly connectors. The shield has tiny fish hooks on its left side which should latch into frame underneath.
Secure it with its Phillips screws (iPhone 5: 3 screws, iPhone 5C: 4 screws). The longest screw goes in the top right hole (5C: second longest screw in the top left hole). Risk for motherboard damage if these screws are placed in the wrong hole.
Secure the battery connector's metal shield with its two Phillips screws. The screws are of slightly different lengths on the iPhone 5; top screw is slightly longer than the bottom screw.
The screws on the iPhone 5C are of the same length.
Metal shield's fish hook have latched on.
Metal shield is held in place.
Longest screw in the top right hole being screwed fasten with the Phillips screwdriver in the picture. Red arrow and yellow circle shows the fourth screw on the 5C.
Pick up and place the battery connector's metal shield.
Secure the battery connector's metal shield with its two Phillips screws.
Assemble the front assembly with the back assembly.
The front assembly has notches on its top side that need to fall into the top of the metal back assembly. Hold the top of the front assembly adjacent to the top of the back assembly then lower the screen while pressing the screen upwards so that the tops are aligned. Once the screen is lowered, press the front together with the back by sliding and pressing with a finger on both long sides and then the bottom side. Visually inspect the phone and confirm that the front assembly is fixed inside the back assembly.
Arrow showing the notches on the front assembly.
Front assembly lowered toward the back assembly.
Front assembly pressed together with back assembly.
Front assembly pressed from other side.
Press from top to bottom.
Bottom part pressed together.
Front fitted in back assembly.
Screw fasten the bottom screws & start the phone.
Pick up the two identical pentalobe bottom screws with the magnetic screwdriver, the tweezers or with fingers and put them in place. Use the pentalobe screwdriver to secure them.
Start the phone.
After a repair the time and date can be be reset to factory default. Because of this the phone might not detect the SIM-card and will show “Searching…” in the top left corner.
Connect your phone to iTunes or a WiFi network and wait a few seconds until the time and date are automatically set.
Restart your phone. It is now ready to be used.
Fasten the two pentalobe bottom screws.
Start the phone.
Disclaimer: Replacing the battery can result in complications if not done correctly or if the iPhone is already damaged. ScandiTech cannot be held responsible for any damage or problems caused on the phone before, during or after the repair process.
If our instructions are not clear, we recommend emailing our support or consulting another replacement guide.